It’s easy to be in love with an idea; it’s a lot harder to follow through on its execution.
I’ve been thinking about baking French bread for a long time now. The idea of pulling a crispy, golden baguette out of my oven appealed to my romantic bread-baker side, but it seemed so complicated. I was scared. I’m not very fond of failing, and I’d often rather not do something at all than to do it and get it wrong. I know, I know. That’s not very daring of me.
I’ve been putting off French bread for all sorts of reasons: I don’t have a spray bottle for misting the bread and making steam, I don’t have a fancy bread lame, I don’t have a canvas baking couche for proofing the bread. Oh, and I wasn’t really sure what proofing meant. And then there’s this:
We were lucky that our stove was included in our apartment, but not so lucky with the stove itself. It’s a million years old, with only one rack inside. The burners go out once a month, the broiler seldom works, and it runs at least 20 degrees cooler than it’s supposed to. It’s so poorly insulated that it just can’t hold its heat. This stove should be a recipe for failure.
So I was unreasonably thrilled when I found out that Julia Child’s French bread was my very first Daring Bakers challenge. If I failed, well, so be it. It wasn’t going to be my fault–I didn’t have the right supplies! As it turns out, Julia Child’s detailed instructions, combined with some anxiety and improvisation with equipment, gave us an amazing result. This was SO not a failure. What we had in the end was a bread with a moist, almost creamy crumb, with large holes; and a crisp, golden, crackling crust that sprang open beautifully where I slashed it before slipping it into the oven. The recipe made three baguettes slightly longer than 12 inches each.
I’m so happy (and pleasantly surprised!) with how this bread turned out, especially given the equipment I was working with. That’s the magic of Julia Child and 10-page-long instructions. The only thing I would do differently is to use better flour. With the intention of conquering my perfectionism, I decided to use the regular, not-special all purpose flour I had in the house. With three(!) rises, and so few ingredients (water, flour, yeast, salt), the flavour of the flour really develops, so it only makes sense to use the best you can get your hands on. I’ll do this next time. And yes, there will be a next time.
The Daring Bakers is a huge group, and there’s a lot of bread online today, so I won’t reprint the recipe. You can check it out here. What I’d like to offer you are some of the resources, materials, and techniques I used.
KNEADING: I’m always a pretty anxious cook, and I was especially so with this recipe. On the day of my baking, my nerves were eased when I discovered this video of Richard Bertinet demonstrating his kneading technique. This was perfect for the French bread dough. Ignore the ingredients he’s using and just focus on the super-cool kneading. My damp, sticky dough was transformed, but I didn’t need to use any extra flour, so the final product wasn’t even the slightest bit tough!
RISING: Here’s a trick my mother has used for years. I use my oven for the first rise, and in the case of this bread, the second rise too. I set my oven to the lowest temperature it runs at. I leave it there for two minutes, and then turn it off, turning on the oven light at the same time. This makes a nice cozy environment for the bread to grow in. Another trick is to put the covered bowl of dough on top of the fridge. It’s usually nice and warm up there too.
Another essential is patience. This dough required hours to rise to its full height. It had finally gone through its final rise and fully cooked 12 HOURS after I first pulled the flour off the shelf. Monitor the dough closely, but don’t skimp on time.
MAKING STEAM AND HEAT: Julia Child’s recipe recommends unglazed quarry tiles and a spray bottle to reproduce the heat and steam of a professional bread baking oven. Well, I didn’t have those, but I do have a pizza stone. I heated the oven hotter than the recommended temperature with the pizza stone inside. This heated the stone up nice and hot, so it would hold the heat that our crappy oven couldn’t. When I slid the baguettes onto the stone, we made steam by tossing a bit of water directly onto the bottom of the oven. The recipe recommends ice cubes, but I didn’t want to sacrifice any heat at all (precious, precious, heat), so we used hot water. We did it three times, about a minute between each steam bath. Carlo whipped open the oven door, I tossed the water from a cookie sheet directly onto the floor of the oven, and Carlo whipped the door closed again. Total time per steam bath: maybe 5 seconds. After all that, I finally reduced the oven heat to the recommended temperature.
NOT BEING AFRAID: Don’t be afraid!
Thanks to the hostesses of this month’s Daring Baker challenge — Mary from The Sour Dough and Sara from I Like to Cook — I’ve conquered my fear of French bread. I can’t wait to see what comes next!
You can see other Daring Bakers’ French bread by going to the Daring Bakers Blogroll.
25 comments
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February 29, 2008 at 10:17 pm
Dianne
It turned out great! Simply beautiful!
February 29, 2008 at 10:18 pm
Tracy
Great job, especially considering your equipment limitations! Great photos, too!
February 29, 2008 at 10:28 pm
Mer
I love your comments about your oven. We work with what we have, don’t we? :0)
Great job on your first challenge! Your pictures look fantastic, and your post was a pleasure to read. Welcome!
February 29, 2008 at 10:35 pm
Beth G
It came out fabulous considering all you had to deal with!! I have danced with an oven like that before, for years- we finally got a new one, but I understand your pain!! :O) Welcome to DB and awesome job on your first challenge!!
February 29, 2008 at 10:48 pm
Barbara
Beautiful bread! It makes me hungry just looking at it.
February 29, 2008 at 10:57 pm
Karen
Your bread looks wonderful! Lovely pictures too! Well done!
March 1, 2008 at 12:40 am
Jenny Colvin
The final result looks terrific. Nice job!
March 1, 2008 at 12:53 am
Gretchen Noelle
Beautiful beautiful breads! My oven has only one rack, bottom heat only, the temps on the dial have nothing to do with the temp inside. Makes for creative baking. What a wonderful job you have done!
March 1, 2008 at 5:01 am
Lucy V
That is some really nice looking French bread! Excellent.
March 1, 2008 at 9:46 am
Tarah
Yum!!! Looks beautiful! Lovely job!
March 1, 2008 at 10:48 am
culinography
Beautiful!!! Way to outwit the oven!
March 1, 2008 at 6:20 pm
cookworm
Your bread looks really terrific. I understand completely about wonky apartment stoves (oh do I ever). But you conquered it well. :) Great job!
March 1, 2008 at 8:11 pm
Rosa
Wow, your bread looks perfect! Great job here!
Cheers,
Rosa
March 1, 2008 at 8:32 pm
whitneymcd7
I love that you added both the recipe and a video about kneading. This was very helpful! Glad to hear that your bread turned out so well.
March 2, 2008 at 3:15 am
Lisa
Beautiful! You did a really nice job – lovely post too :) Congratulations!
March 2, 2008 at 3:50 am
Jane
Wonderful job. And wasn’t the steam so much fun?
Jane of VeganBits.com
March 2, 2008 at 4:44 am
marion-il en faut peu pour ...
it looks so great ! what a performance with that oven ! congratulations :)
March 2, 2008 at 10:48 am
breadchick
I’d definitely say from the looks of those loaves you conquered your fear.
Great job and thanks for baking with Sara and I
March 2, 2008 at 6:06 pm
Cheri
Hi – I love that you have an old oven and the bread looks that beautiful. My stovetop must be from the 60’s and cooks either high or so low it doesn’t count. Love you site. I am excited to join Daring Bakers.
March 3, 2008 at 1:17 pm
EB
It’s absolutely gorgeous!! Not the stove of course… the bread! Stunning! Well done.
March 3, 2008 at 10:18 pm
Marq
Wow. Your bread turned out beautifully. Great job!
March 5, 2008 at 12:34 pm
Suzana
Wow, that’s a beautiful bread. I love the air pockets! And your site is lovely. :)
March 6, 2008 at 8:14 pm
happygrub
haha, love your oven story, its so cute! Glad you could make things work with what you had at hand. Your bread looks perfect! And it sure is useful to have a sous chef around during your coordinated efforts..
I was wondering why you had to find a warm place to let your bread rise. Than I remembered, right.. Its cold there.. I just place my bread anywhere and it varies from being a warm place to extremely hot. Not suitable for brioche cos the butter melts out of the dough n u get this dough in a puddle of oil..
Anyway you should try letting your dough rise in an airtight container. yeast is anaerobic and its much much better, u should try it! I swear by this.
What did you eat the bread with by the way?
March 24, 2008 at 5:44 pm
cadiz12
we had an oven that looked a lot like that when i was growing up, which had nearly as bad a temperament.
but your french bread looks delicious!
April 24, 2008 at 4:42 am
arfi
you’re most welcome, hanne!! i’m so happy you like my recipes :D